Culinary

Die süddeutsche Küche für Anfängerinnen und praktische Köchinnen

By Katharina Prato Edle von Scheiger, 1902

Gugelhupf. Beaten*. (pp.508-9)

Sprinkle 2 dl (200 g) yeast with milk, a little flour and 2 teaspoons of sugar to make a thin fermentation test**, and leave to rise. Then sieve 7 dl (700 g) warm flour in a bowl, add a little salt and a little vanilla (or lemon peel, crushed anise, or even mace), 2 or 3 egg yolks, which have been whisked together with 1 dl (100 ml) milk, 7 dl (700 g) lukewarm butter or lard and add the yeast mixture and mix everything together. If the dough is not soft enough, add a little more milk. Beat the dough thoroughly straightaway, then mix in three handfuls of raisins. Now butter or lard the Gugelhupf tin thoroughly, scatter with flaked almonds, and fill the tin half full with the dough and leave to rise until it is full. Bake the Gugelhupf for up to one hour and coat it once with butter during baking. When it comes away from the sides of the tin, it is fully cooked and can be turned out immediately, coated with plenty of butter and covered with a serviette. Do not put it in a cool place straightaway.

You can similarly prepare Gugelhupf from a chilled yeast dough (p.81)

Beaten Gugelhupf is even finer when you use 7 dl (700 g) flour, 4 or 5 egg yolks, 10 dl (1 kg) butter, and cream instead of milk, 7 dl (700 g) sugar, a little vanilla (or lemon or bitter orange peel), add 14 dl (1.4 kg) raisins and a handful of pine nuts or flaked almonds to the dough and coat the baked Gugelhupf with vanilla sugar after removing it from the tin.

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Marbled Guglhupf
Bund tins

Strudel Pastry. (p.70)

No.1. Take 3 ½ dl (350 g) fine flour on the pastry board, sprinkle an egg or just an egg white with a little salt and lukewarm but not boiling water and knead it with the flour until you have a soft dough, which at first will stick both to your hands and the board. When it begins to come away, lay it on a floured part of the board, wash your hands and work the dough until it starts to blister, at which point flour your hands more frequently. Then coat it with lukewarm water, cover with a cold dish if it is soft, or a warm dish if it is hard, and leave it to rest for half an hour. 

Now spread a cloth over a table and sprinkle it with flour. Place the slightly stretched dough on the cloth and pull it out all round with both hands until it is quite transparent. If there is only one person to pull it out, you will have to use a rolling pin so that it holds. If two people can work on it, both can use floured hands beneath a little stretched dough and pull it with the backs of their hands until it is thin enough in the centre, after which it is left on the cloth and drawn outwards thinly all the way round with the fingers. Cut away the remaining thick edges. 

Spread the dough with the filling and slowly lift up the cloth on one side slowly with both hands so that it rolls up. 

Apple strudel

Spread the dough with the filling and slowly lift up the cloth on one side slowly with both hands so that it rolls up. 

If you are going to simmer it, cut it into three or four finger-length slices prior to cooking; however, before cooking, use the handle of a floured wooden spoon to press down the edges where you have cut it, so the filling does not come out. You can also shape it to a crescent and place it in a casserole and steam it whole and cut it afterwards. 

Notes: Measurements: I have converted the original decilitres to grams and millilitres for ease of modern cooks. 

I have retained Katharina Prato’s spelling, Gugelhupf, which may also be spelled Guglhupf. This classic Viennese sponge is sometimes rendered in English as Bundt Cake after the type of tin used, a charlotte bund (the spelling again may vary!)

*Beaten, as opposed to the other type of yeast dough, which is stirred.

**Fermentation test: The author has used an Austrian expression, Dampfl, which is a means of testing whether or not the yeast is active.

Other cookbooks consulted:

Lotte Scheibenpflug: Das Beste aus Österreichs Küche, Pinguin-Verlag, Innsbruck, 1970

Gretel Beer: Austrian Cooking, André Deutsch, 1954, 1979

Elisabeth Mayer-Browne: Best of Austrian Cuisine, Hippocrene, New York, 1997/2001

A. Cutler & C.Wagner (English translation: Mý Hué McGowran): The New Sacher Cookbook, Pichler, 2005

Susan Spaull and Fiona Burrell: Leiths Baking Bible (Bloomsbury, 2006)

This is a recipe by the same author for the famous Linzertorte. This tart (more than a gateau) comes in a number of forms, and this recipe is for “Linzertorte braun” (brown Linzertorte), so-called because it uses unblanched almonds.

Die süddeutsche Küche für Anfängerinnen und praktische Köchinnen

By Katharina Prato Edle von Scheiger, 1902

Linzer Torte and tartlets

Linzer dough: Crumble 1.4 kg butter with 1.4 kg flour; with a knife mix in 3 hard-boiled, mashed egg yolks, 1.4 kg sugar, 1.4 kg unskinned finely split almonds, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, juice and zest of half a lemon and a raw egg yolk. Knead the dough just for a short time with your hands, roll out to a thin finger thickness, cut out a round leaf the size of the tart tin, lay the leaf on the metal, coat around the edge with egg and within this coat with raspberry or red currant or apricot jam; cover with a lattice formed from the remaining slices of dough formed with your hands. Lay a stick of dough in the middle over the circle of dough, and another to make a slightly oblique cross, then two more over this one in the same direction as the first, but a finger width away from the first; then two in the same direction as the second stick, so that you already have to lift the first one a little bit at the ends in order to lay it down. Continue to lay and plait in the same way until the lattice is complete. The spaces in between should take the form of finger-breadth, offset rectangles. Cut round the edge of the lattice evenly, twist a roll of dough, then coat the dough and the lattice with beaten egg and place the circle of a springform tin around the cake, or encircle it twice with a sheet of strong paper and stick the ends firmly with flour paste. Bake the cake, and once it has been taken out of the oven, sprinkle with sugar and add more fresh liquid from the coating mixture.

The next translation sample concerns Burgundy wines, and comes from a report on the Universal Exposition of 1900.

EXPOSITIONS UNIVERSELLE INTERNATIONALE DE 1900.

BOURGOGNE – BURGUNDY

As for red wines, apart from the ordinary ones that are light, fresh and fruity, the Yonne region produces great table wines, full-bodied wines that are sinewy with a solid constitution as are most of those of Coulange-la-Vineuse and Iraney, and the great wines which have created this region’s reputation. They can be found at Avallon, Joigny, and above all at Auxerre, Tonnerre and Épineul. These are generous wines, with a strength sometimes of more than 12%, with unusual finesse and a very spicy bouquet.

Nevertheless, Yonne triumphs above all in its white wines. These ordinary whites, with their straightforward taste are spicy, dry and never leave the impression on the palate of non-inverted sugar, and are sought above all others on the Parisian market.

But all this fades before the universal reputation of Chablis, which sums up the great white wines of Yonne.

It is typical of great white dry wines; in this class, it comes second in the world after the inimitable Meursaults and Montrachets. “Spirited without the spirit realizing it,” said J. Guyot. It has body, finesse and a charming scent; its paleness and smoothness are remarkable. Above all, it stands out in its health and digestive qualities, its energisation is lively, benign and full of the lucidity it gives to the intelligence.” If it is pleasant on the nose, its length retained as it goes over the palate, its range of its overtones is equally varied. It is surprisingly robust, it can go all around the world, park itself in icy harbours, or put in at a scorching hot port with no damage to its marvellous stability.

Posh scrambled eggs follow now, together with a rather unexpected recipe for Hollandaise, and one for Gâteau Pithiviers that makes you thankful for modern cooking methods. They are taken from a cookery book from Provence, dating from 1900:

La Cuisinière Provençale, par J.-B. Reboul, Chef de Cuisine (Marseille, 1900)

Œufs brouillés aux truffes

Scrambled eggs with truffles

Place a knob of butter the size of an egg in a large flat pan and let it melt; add 3 or 4 fine shaved or sliced truffles; allow them to heat without, however, allowing the butter to brown. When the truffles begin to release their aroma, break in 5 or 6 eggs, season with salt and pepper, and stir over a low heat with a wooden spoon. When you decide they are cooked, that is, they are a suitable texture, add two soup spoonsof double cream and serve with butter fried croutons.

Using the same method, you can prepare the eggs with asparagus tips, mushrooms, ham, etc. The filling should be cooked beforehand.

Sauce Robert

Sauce Robert

Finely slice an onion and put it in lard [melted in a pan]. When it is well coloured, add a tablespoon of flour; do not let it brown, and moisten it with a few tablespoons of stock. Season and allow to boil for a few minutes. Add the juice of one lemon and a tablespoon of mustard at the point of serving.

Sauce Hollandaise

Hollandaise

Place a knob of butter the size of a nut in a pan, add a tablespoon of flour, moisten with a glass of boiling water, mix this sauce well until there are no lumps. Do not let it boil, though it must be very thick. Add two egg yolks, mix well gradually adding 50 g fresh butter; season and add lemon juice.

Gâteau Pithiviers ou Tourte aux amandes

Gateau Pithiviers (Twelfth Night Cake) or Almond Cake

In a mortar, place 250 g blanched and dried almonds, including a few bitter almonds with 250 g sugar cubes.

Begin to pound all the almonds together with a quarter of the indicated quantity of sugar; pass through a sieve; replace any that did not go through the sieve in the mortar with another quarter of the sugar, and continue likewise until everything has passed through.

Replace all the almonds and sugar in the mortar in order to add six whole eggs, followed by 150 g creamed butter and flavour with a soup spoon of orange blossom water.

From puff pastry made beforehand, make two crusts the desired size of the cake. Place one on a pie dish, and in the middle place the prepared almond cream extending it with a knife to 3 cm away from the edge; moisten the pastry border; place the second crust of pastry on top and apply weight to the edges to clamp them together; glaze with egg and bake in a hot oven.